Katia Fabrics & Patterns: #W7
Who needs another sewing pattern company?! Pattern review lists already 716 of them! Well, I'm in there too but I'm not really a sewing pattern company, am I? My answer is: we all do! Imagine a world in which you go to your favorite RTW store to buy a pair of jeans and they carry only one brand, and that doesn't fit or flatter because they design for a body that's totally different from yours. That would be annoying… to say the least. The same with the sewing pattern companies. The more the merrier! Waking up one Sunday morning with some free time on your hands, taking a pattern some fabric and just sewing it up … no fuss, no mess, no alterations, no fitting and being able to wear it in the evening for drinks – that's the dream! Especially if you sew to relax and relieve stress. Especially if you are new to this sewing thing ;)
No "This is not working".
No "This is not how's supposed to look like".
No "This pattern is wrong" – yet so many sewed it – "My body is wrong! My belly is too full, my buttocks too flat, my chest too small, my shoulders toooooo forward. I am wrong".
… or whatever variation on the above theme.
It takes time to learn to know and accept your body with all its little quirks. Sewing gets you there and it doesn't need to be the hard way. Understanding that different pattern companies design for different bodies is fundamental! So, again, the more the merrier! Maybe one of them designs for your particular, peculiar, gorgeous body.
Another thing that newbie seamstresses struggle with is choosing the right fabric. I speak from experience! My first dress was a Colette Laurel and I chose for it a fashion knit, which is the opposite of what you're supposed to do. It took me two weeks of fiddling with the damned thing and in turns, I hated it, the pattern, and myself. Almost gave up a couple of times. But I'm stubborn and made it and I'm still here sewing.
That's why I think companies that sell both the pattern and the fabric to match (in a print of your choice of course) are a blessing for the inexperienced sewist. You can start to get a feel for what works with what and concentrate on construction and fit without stumbling on other issues that can turn a potentially good experience into a hellish nightmare.
Sewing this shirtdress was relaxing.
I chose a size (based on my hips measurement). I traced the pattern lengthening the skirt by about 5cm above the side slit. I cut. I sewed it. When I got to attaching the sleeves I machine basted one first and tried it on. Just by looking at the back sleeve cap curve I knew that wouldn't work for me. I straightened it by removing about 1/2in. That's it!
The design:
This is a simple, basic, knee-length popover shirtdress with pockets, side slits and 3/4 sleeves finished with open cuffs. There is also the shirt version included.
The pattern:
Comes in 7 sizes from XXS to XXL. The drafting is sound. It is professional. It wasn't done in the kitchen by somebody's aunt. Maybe it is too industrial with the 3/8 seam allowances that don't leave much wiggle room and the spare use of notches.
The fit:
It is very good (on me) but they did go a little bit short with the ease. To a 94cm hip circumference, corresponds a 98cm garment circumference measured at the lower notch pocket placement. I personally prefer a bit more ease. Because I like to sit without being afraid I'll pull a seam. Because I like to stand up without having to pull down my skirt. (Pet peeve: I wish the pattern companies would declare their model measurements…. Really … it's not that difficult! "The model is: bust, waist, hips & height and wears a size X". The model on the pattern envelope appears to be wearing a size up).
The instructions:
Unfortunately, the instructions are on the laconic side. These are instructions that guide not instructions that teach so I wouldn't recommend them to the absolute beginner. On the plus side, they come in six languages: Spanish, English, German, French, Italian (woo-hoo) and Dutch!
The fabric:
I chose a cotton poplin Girl's vintage Bike. It is medium to heavy weight (as far as poplins go) good quality, very little shrinkage, not see-through (though I wouldn't wear dark colored underwear under this dress). Very easy to work with. The jersey I used for the t-shirt is also very good. Both have a very nice hand and feel like fashion fabrics, not utility fabrics.
Sewing notes:
I didn't bother much with pattern matching.
I should move that last button by 1/16in but I'm lazy like that.
I overlapped the cuffs by 3/8in and made a pleat to compensate.
Pattern:
3/4 sleeve shirtdress and shirt
by
Katia
Fabric: popelin (100%) from
Katia Fabrics
Size: XS (ref. measurements 177/84/68/94 cm)
Fitting : lengthened 5cm, back sleeve cap curve adjustment
Mods: overlapped sleeve cuffs
A few words about the t-shirt:
My man wanted one. He chose the fabric It's the White Seaworld jersey. I made the t-shirt without changing anything, not even a notch on the pattern. He is really pleased with it. It's one of those quirky things, right there with the custom belt buckles, the funny socks and the colorful chino shorts some men forced to wear suits/uniforms at work use to shelter their uniqueness / independence from the "system" – don't ask. He wants another.
I like this dress … a lot! It doesn't feel like it belongs on a beach somewhere or that I forgot to wear pants (so many shirtdresses do) and with some accessorizing can be really urban: some glamorous shades, a belt, some cool bag or shoes - maybe not the white sneaker I'm wearing in these pics which kinda give the whole outfit a radical nurse Jackie type of vibe, but it's ok. Clothes are for living in and I had just taken Eli to the vet. 😉 This is a perfect everyday dress.
I'm sure I'll use Katia patterns again. I definitely need to try the button up shirt – one can never have too many shirts!
Thank you for visiting. I would love to hear your opinion and if you like it put a <3 on it!