What do you start with? The pattern? The fabric? A sketch or an abstract idea?
I noticed that especially when it comes to sewing for myself I prefer to start with the fabric. I like to observe its material qualities and imagine what it wants to become and then what I would want it to become. Sometimes it’s doable sometimes isn’t - maybe because my ideas were too far off or simply because I might not have the sewing skills required to make it happen.
This super stretchy Pagastic bengaline satin seemed suited for a sheath dress, leggings/super skinnies and similar garments. Let me briefly explain what exactly Pagastic bengaline satin is (besides a mouthful). It’s a bengaline - a warp faced-fabric with heavy cords (in this case viscose) running in the direction of the filling. The filling yarns are coarser but more warp yarns (Pagastic™ elastic yarn here) are used so the filling is completely covered. Usually the bengaline is woven in plain weave but for this fabric a satin weave was used. The result is a fabric with body, a rich texture resembling the sponge finish, a fresh feel, good absorbency and amazing warp elasticity.

Because I don’t see myself in a bodycon dress I decided to make a pair of trousers with a feel somewhere inbetween sporty and fancy. The Burda 108/E seemed to be the perfect choice. The technical drawing shows a slim pant with front fly, front and back darts, in seam front pockets, back flaps, front and back darts, ankle zippers and shaped waistband. I replaced the back flaps with single welt pockets and because the fabric is not so thin I did not cut the under bag of the side pocket out of main fabric (as the pattern instructed) but out of lining and I aded a facing. I also removed the ankle zippers - there is really no need for it with the fabric I used.

Although the recommended fabric is a trouser fabric with elastane, I knew I still had to adapt the pattern to the huge amount of stretch my fabric had. To calculate the percentage the pattern needed to be reduced by I measured on the pattern the total circumference along the hipline and then draped a length of fabric around my hips and measured it. The total difference resulted to be around 12cm that represented a 12% reduction. I should have then applied this reduction in sections (waist, hip, crotch, upper thigh, knee, calf and hem) but in paper this process can be quite labour intensive. As the variations where not huge (for instance 3,72 around the back upper thigh and 2,22 around the back calf) I decided to remove 3cm from the back and front trouser pieces and waistband pattern pieces and then use the seam allowances to fine tune the fit. Because this Burda pattern does not have seam allowances I did not add any and calculated them as already included at 1.5cm.

I quickly basted the main pieces, fitted and trimmed the seam allowances to 1cm when I realised that even if the extended front pocket bags would stabilise some the front of the trousers, with the stretchy fabric the side seam and pocket edge would spread in a way I anticipated I would not like. The solution to this problem would be to cut the pocket facing in one with the back leg pattern piece. That was no longer a possibility therefore I decided to add tuxedo like side stripes and cut them in one piece with the pocket facing. Basted; everything was working perfectly and I was very pleased with myself. The next day to refine the fit I fiddled with the front side seam and when I was done guess what I did? Trimmed the seam allowances including the pocket facings. I don’t know if this is a new kind of stupid or the first signs of senile dementia but I felt like kicking myself. I had no more fabric to cut the whole length for the stripes. I did contemplate for like five seconds the possibility of piecing them together but then I went “hell no”!

…and here’s the result :(

The rest went together without any problems - Burda patterns are really good despite the laconic instructions and the diy (draft it yourself) parts.

Pattern: Cropped Trousers 08/2010 by Burda
Fabric: Pagastic™ bengaline satin from Nooteboom Textiles 68%VI 28%PA 4%SP
Size: 38 (ref. measurements 177/84/68/94 cm)
Fitting : due to the fabric change I cannot detail the fitting alterations
Mods: single welt back pockets, side stripes, extended waistband, no ankle zippers

I must say I am rather pleased with these pants, they are incredibly comfortable.

Thank you for visiting. I would love to hear your opinion and if you like it put a <3 on it!